Hi from Asmara!

Hello from a very cold Asmara, where the kids and I are spending a few days waiting to get the last of our vaccines. It's nice to get away for a bit of a break from the routine though I definitely prefer the warm climate in Keren. I slept with a blanket for the first time since South Africa and I'm wearing a fleece sweater as I write this. Who would believe we're in Africa! But we're having a nice visit, staying with our lovely Welsh VSO friend Mel. She's the one who took such good care of us in Asab last year. Now that that southern Eritrean town is off limits for foreigners, she's been reassigned here. She treated us to a package macaroni and cheese supper, popcorn, hot chocolate and movies last night! It was very nice. We'll head back to Keren tomorrow.

So Eid has come and gone since I wrote last. We had a very nice time despite a bad attack of a stomach bug that knocked me off my feet for a few days. Luckily our friend Adem took care of me by preparing some traditional Eritrean medicine. It turned out to be ground cloves, which he served in a bit of water. It was pretty hard to get down but seemed to do the trick. I felt better the next day and we were able to go to his home for Eid. We've known Adem for over and year and it was nice to finally meet his family. We had some great zigne (spicy goat stew), rice and taita, as well as peanuts and candies and coffee ceremony. It was a really nice visit. We then headed off to our colleague, Abdel Gader's, 45 minutes late, but we figured it didn't matter, we're in Eritrea! Well Abder Gader was nowhere to be found. It turns out he'd waited a bit, then left. So much for the stereotype of the African lack of respect for time! On another day, we also visited my former student. She's the one who was asked to leave school last year because of a letter she'd written to the principal. She told me she's now working as a teacher in her new school, teaching English and Social Studies. This is great news as it will mean a chance for a good future for her. We also visited our Egyptian friends, our one set of friends whose English is weaker than our Arabic, so we had a great time trying to communicate. They are lovely people and we hope to visit them in Egypt on our way home as they'll be finishing their contract at the same time as us. They have converted their yard into a beautiful garden, with mint, lettuce and beautiful "kirkadey" plants (I think it's hibiscus in English). These are big tall plants with huge red flowers that are dried and use to make a fruity tasting drink.

The Egyptian's garden puts ours to shame. We haven't planted anything but we do have a few things growing. The landlord's sorgum crop turned out to be pretty thin. He paid someone to plow and plant the field but I don't think it was giving much attention over the summer. There were a few spindly plants when we returned, a real shame since so many of our neighbours were eager to plant and tend a garden there over the summer. The other crop was a voluntary watermelon that grew just in front of our porch where Simon and Yasmin had been spitting seeds. We shared one big melon with some friends at Eid and it was delicious. Maya had kept it watered and built a stone wall around it and her efforts paid off. Unfortunately, one of the neighbourhood kids must have snuck over our wall one night and stolen the smaller watermelon because one morning it was gone.

School has been going well. I have now asked two girls to leave the class for a period (step three in my new discipline system) and I think everyone is getting the message that they need to be quiet. Teaching for a second year is sure a lot easier than it was for the first year as we've figured out what level the students are at and what works with them. As for our children, they've decided to do home schooling this year and we've decided not to make them go through another year of "learning" by copying endless and wordy notes off the board and trying not to get hit by their teachers. Hopefully it will work out for them.

Guess that's all the news for now. Oh to the lovely teachers at T.M. Roberts: sorry, but I keep forgetting to bring Janet's email address with me. I needed to let you know how much we appreciate your wonderful package. The messages were wonderful and we had lots of fun discovering all the hidden treasure. The kids and Kim and I are very thankful. Expect a letter in the mail soon from all of us. Merci Mme Janet for your ingenious efforts!

Take care everyone.

Barbara